March 18 1985: Taken from Back to The East: India, Nepal, Kashmir
18th March: AGRA
We arose at 5 AM to catch the 7.05 AM train, the Taj Express, to Agra, arriving at Agra Cantonment at 10.00 AM. Both stations were of course crowded.
As we left Agra Station we were approached by a smiling taxi driver who introduced himself as Maxi and offered to show us around at a “very good price” whilst we were there.
AGRAMAXI
by
Alun Buffry
We arrived in Agra and were led to a taxi,
By a smiling Moslem, name of Maxi,
Who took us all the sites to see,
Simple charges, a few rupees
You have to spend in every shop
Within which he took us to stop.
"Come in, sit down, don't walk passed
"Look at my stones and see my brass,
"Quality friend you cannot be missing
"Excuse me Sir, I must do some wishing.
"You like some chai, cold drink, coffee?
"No don't talk now of your money!"
"Only to look and not to buy,
"See here it's cheap, and here is why -
"See the craftsmanship is fine,
"And it can be yours if you'll just sign
"The cheque or bill or pay in cash,
But first my friend, just smoke more hash!"
Maxi asked us for just 80 rupees for the whole day visiting the Taj Mahal, Agra Fort, the Mogul Palace. Our itinerary from the Baktoos included a one night stay at Hotel Amir, which looked clean, with a restaurant downstairs, free tea, a carpeted room with a shower and bath. Breakfast included cornflakes, already a treat!
Of course as well as site seeing, Maxi took us to shops, where of course he always earned a good commission despite our haggling. We bought rings, semi-precious gem stones including aquamarine, a marble inlaid table top (which, in 2021, I still have) some silk paintings and soapstone pieces. I thought that it I could sell them back in the UK it would go some way to paying for the holiday.
Agra Fort was a massive red fort, one third of which was open to the public; the rest was used by the Indian Army. Emperor Akbar started the building in 1565 and it was continued by his grandson, Shah Jahan. The one that built the Taj Mahal and was later overthrown by his own son Aurangzeb (Muhi-ud-Din Muhammad).
Inside the fort there were several palaces and also a beautiful and fine view of the Taj Mahal. The extensive walls were surrounded by two moats, one of which previously had been filled with water and the other with wild animals. One entered through the Amar Singh gate. The other gate, the Delhi gate, was used by the army.
The Moti Masjid, or Pearl Mosque, looked beautiful from the outside but was closed off.
The Hall of Public Audiences had amazing acoustics so that people even a hundred yards away (modern measurements of course) could hear the Emperor, even if he whispered.
The Hall of Private Audiences had two thrones, one for the Emperor and opposite that, one for his chief councillor. It was here that secret meetings were held under canvas. The Peacock Throne was kept here before it was later carried off to Tehran.
Jahangiri’s Palace may be the most noteworthy building inside the Agra Fort. The Mahal was the principal zenana (palace for women belonging to the royal household), and was used mainly by the Rajput wives of Akbar. It was a form of Islamic architecture. The palace was built by Akbar. It was one of the earliest surviving buildings of Akbar's reign. Jahangir in his memoirs stated that the buildings were erected by his father Akbar but did not take any credit for the construction of Jahangiri palace. Mahal Mughal Empress Nur Jahan used this magnificent palace as her residence until her death on 17 December 1645. There was a huge bowl called Hauz-i-Jahangiri that was carved out of a single piece of stone. This was used as a container for fragrant rose water.
The Shish Mahal or Mirror Palace was once full of tiny mirrors and used by concubines.
The beautiful Grape Gardens (Anguri Bagh) probably never had grapes! Built by Shah Jehan in 1637, with Khas Mahal to its east and red sandstone arcades on the other three sides, it was the principal square of the zenana apartments or the living area of the royal ladies. There was a marble paved platform with a fountain in its centre and the garden itself was divided into compartments in intricate geometrical pattern.
In front of the Jahangiri’s Palace, there was a huge bath, about 5 feet deep, carved out of a single piece of stone. Underneath was a cool room used in summertime, and above it was a white marble palace. When the Emperor Jahan’s wife died and she was buried at the Taj Mahal, it was closed up so nobody could see the detail and care taken in building this masterpiece.
One entered the grounds through a sandstone arch inscribed from the Koran. A watercourse runs from there through the gardens to the Taj Mahal.
The shops of Agra offered a variety of fine crafted goods. The marble shop had table tops of marble inlaid with slivers of semi precious stones, boxes, table mats, lamp stands, chess boards and much more. Some of the work was very detailed. The patterns were drawn on the marble and the shapes cut out and filled. Much of the work was done by children. The gem shop contained many precious and semi precious stones, with Star of India, Black Stars, Lapis Lazuli, Aquamarine and Tigers Eye, of fine, medium and poor quality, sold at rupees per carat. They would place a stone in a ring or almost anywhere else you want it. For a price! They also sold silk paintings, inlaid bags and belts and small items. There was also a sitar shop with beer, charas and music. Small sitars were from £35 to £50, larger single drum £100 to £200, and a beautiful double drum for £400. They said sitar was easy to learn how to play. The bulbous part was made from pumpkin.
The brass shop was piled high including lots of shelves with many brass items. The most impressive were the copper and white brass coffee pots in various sizes, many inlaid with semi precious stones. I bought one lovely piece about fifteen inches tall, with a decorated handle and dragon-like headed spout. I still have it to this day. It was to be shipped back to the UK along with the many other items that I bought with the intention of selling. These included many hanging chains of small brass bells with shapes of animals or birds or letters spelling out words such as LOVE and PEACE. They were sold by the weight. Also several beautiful engraved brass vases and lamp stands, a wine set of tray, decanter and goblets, various ashtrays shaped like playing cards, hearts, diamonds, clubs and spades, brass lighter covers and several coloured engraves brass bowls with peacock motifs.
That evening we ate at Zorba the Buddha: clean with a good selection of vegetarian food. It was run by Sanyasi. The Sanyassen were dressed in orange it was an unusual modern cult of devotees that had relinquished their possessions but did not seem limited to any particular lifestyle or ritual either. Still, they seemed happy so good luck to them. I had met some back in Norwich. Most of them smoked chillums of hash.
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