Myhat in Egypt Through the Eyes of a God
Ana
pointed to a worker who was doing something amidst a field of green
crop. He was wearing just a loin cloth. It was very hot, much hotter
than Ed had expected for quite early in the day. Ed felt overdressed
in the djellaba over his jeans and tee-shirt, with me still
clinging onto his head.
When
they reached the worker, Ana spoke to him in Arabic.
The
man shrugged and said something back. He was staring straight at me;
I knew that I fascinated him and he wanted me on his head – not
that Ed knew, but I would not have minded for a while, just to see
through the man's eyes.
“He's
saying hello, I think,” Ana said, turning to Ed.
“It's
not Arabic though, it's more like Berber, the language they still
speak in the desert in Morocco. I didn't know they spoke it here.
I'll try and ask him where we are.”
Ana
tried a few words and pointed around the place where they stood.”
The
man pointed across the river and said “Oo – are – set.”
Ana
looked at him and pointed also across the river. She said “Luxor?”
The
man shrugged and said “Happy”.
Ana
said said something that was not English and smiled. “Temple of
Hatshepsut?” she asked.
Another
shrug.
“Temple
Karnak? Ramasseum?”
No
response to that, just a big smile on his face and a small bow.
“Oo
– are - set! Oo – are - set!” he said pointing and laughing.
“I
don't know those words,” said Ana, “maybe it's somebody's name,
like his boss? Or just an oo - are”
“Oh
well,” said Ed, “From what I can guess, if we go round the hill
we should find the road back to the village or at least see something
familiar. It's kind of weird here. It doesn't look at all right. I
just can't fathom where we are.”
They
bowed slightly to the smiling man and set out to walk around the end
of the hill that covered the tombs and tunnels they had passed
through. From there, Ed thought, they should be able to see Luxor
and the Temple.
In
fact they did see a town spread out on the other side of the Nile,
quite a large place but it was certainly not Luxor.
There
were no big buildings or hotels, no Temple, just what looked like a
palace. There were no tourist cruise boats moored there, no
feluccas, just small craft, going back and forth across the
river. There was no ferry.
Ed
was quite stressed out by now, I could tell, and I too was getting
concerned that they were lost. Yet this side was not exactly a huge
area, just fields between the hills and the river.
It
just looked like somewhere completely different, as if they had
exited the tunnels many miles up or down stream, somewhere they had
never been before. They found no road, saw no trace of human
habitation except for the few men working in the fields.
“The
phone's still not working,” said Ana, “I think we better go back
and find that boulder and get back to Ayman and find out what's going
on. Maybe he knows where we are. Maybe he has been here himself.”
They
walked back round the hill and scrambled up to find the chalk marks.
As
Ed was about to climb through the gap above the boulder with the
chalk mark, Ana asked “Is this yours?”
She
passed Ed a small lighter which had a picture of the pyramids on. Ed
flicked it, but it didn't work. He put it in his pocket anyway. It
was a very hot day and I knew that Ed was keen to get back into the
cool tunnels.
They
quickly climbed back into the tunnel and followed the chalk marks,
much faster than it had taken them coming this way, not stopping so
much. There were several other tunnels leading off at points, so I
sensed Ed was glad he'd marked the way. He had not noticed them all
on the way through.
Just
about half an hour later, they exited through to the garden in the
dilapidated house.
“I'll
phone Ayman,” said Ed.
As
he looked at his own mobile phone, he said “Well I get a signal but
my phone says it's only eight-thirty”
Ana
checked her own phone. “Weird, mine too. But it must have been
two o'clock at least when we turned back, the sun was really high and
I'm sure we were away for longer than that. We've definitely been
gone for more than a few hours. It took over an hour to get through
to the other end and we were there for at least four hours.”
Ed
phoned Ayman and said that they were back but that they had a problem
so would like to meet him again later.
Ed
and Ana left the garden, covering once again the entrance to the
tunnels behind them.
They
walked back to the hotel; sure enough it was only late morning.
They
had black tea with milk and a late breakfast of corn flakes with
milk, eggs and bread and sweet cakes and orange juice. They were
both very hungry.
Ed
took out some maps of the area and began scrutinising them.
“I
can't work this out at all,” he said, “whichever way we went and
wherever we came out on the hillside, we ought to have been able to
see Luxor and the Temples and we should have found the road. And I
don't know why there weren't any boats. There aren't any towns that
size for miles”
He
decided to walk the short distance from the hotel towards the river.
Ana said that she wanted to take a rest so he went alone.
Ed
saw everything was as as it should be. There was the river, the
ferry and, on the East Bank, he could see the cruise boats and Luxor
town along with its Temple and tall lush hotels. Plenty of people
about too, as usual, carrying on their daily business, taxies and
trucks, donkeys pulling carts.
Puzzled
still, he went back to the hotel.
Ana
said that Ayman had phoned her to say that Youssef would pick them up
at six o'clock.
“I've
been thinking about what that guy said. You know when he pointed and
said Oo – are - set?
“Well
there's nowhere here called that and I asked the manager at reception
if he knew anyone called that or any place and he said no. But he
said that centuries ago the old place was called Waset even
before it was called Thebes.”
“I
looked it up and he's right but that was four thousand years ago, in
the time of Pharaohs Senusret
the First and Amenemhat
the Second.”
Ah,
another
Hat, I thought, maybe an ancestor. Remember
dear reader, that
I had also heard of a woman
Pharaoh called Hatshepsut,
who also had a temple built
here.
Ana
continued: “The books say they were Twelfth dynasty, after
Mentuhotep the Second,
Eleventh dynasty. They'd had a war with the North which
lasted for about fifty years
and then many of the Nomes
were united. The town was called Waset.
Waset was a Goddess.”
“Maybe
what we saw was some sort of touristy replica or something, but it
must be a huge site. We''ll ask Ayman about it this evening,” said
Ed.
“Pretty
weird. I'm
going to ask Ayman if we can go back; we'll cross the river and find
out what's going on,” said Ed.