March 21 and 22 1985: Still in Khajuraho

  Taken from Back To The East, India, Nepal, Kashmir  

21^st March

Today were supposed to take a flight to Varanasi.

We got up at 7 AM and took a taxi to the airport.

Guess what! The plane was full! So back we went to the Indian Airways office at the Hotel Temple and plan to give it another try tomorrow after being promised seats, that we had paid for. We were on a waiting list. “No problem Sir, see you later! God wants you to stay!”

We were a bit pissed off but will get to see more today.

This was when we met Rameshwar, supposedly an official government guide, who wanted to stick to us like glue as if keeping an eye on us. We spent most of the day with him

22^nd March

Again no seats on the plane, so we had to stay another night, this time at the house of Rameshwar and his family: wife and children, mother and elder brother.

First we went going with him to see the Jain Temples.

“Two of the large temples still stand in a good state of preservation in the original form. The portico of the Adinath temple was a later addition. The enclosed Shantinath temple, just 100 years old. It houses a massive monolithic Shantinath image. It also incorporates at least one other Chandella period temple.”

I smoked a chillum with a monk at one of the Jain temples, very little tobacco, from a roasted cigarette then moistened with dew from a plant nearby and rubbed in his hand. It was a hot, dry smoke but very effective. Nice!

It was extremely and uncomfortably hot today. Rameshwar kept wanting to take us one at time on the back of his scooter, trying to split us up. Obviously I was not at all happy about this.

He persuaded Lesley to go first to see a waterfall, despite my warnings. He was supposed to come back to get me within 30 minutes but time was passing and it was well over an hour and no sign of them. I was glad I got him to write his name and address in my notebook. It’s worrying but what could I do? I couldn’t really call police or anybody at this stage, it would end out being a problem either way. I was sure, and I would probably have to pay. So it was a matter of lazing around, waiting.

The creep brought Lesley back a few hours later. She said the waterfall was dried up so he took her to a lake. She had no idea where she was. Later she told me he tried to kiss her and threatened to throw himself into the lake. Shame he didn’t, but no harm done.

That evening Rameshwar wanted us to go to another lake. He said would we go for a walk with his children but when I said OK he said I would walk with them and he would take Lesley and unbelievably she said yes. I said no, we all go together, so he promised to take her and come back in ten minutes. He said he would take us to see his “other Babu”, whatever that means. Then we were all going together. The journey took about fifteen minutes, so there was no way he could have come back in ten.

We went to a small cinema that was packed, showing a film in Hindi, just local people. Before I even knew it, Lesley was gone again. So I went outside to look for her. I did not find her at that time though. Rameshwar had said that he would take her first and come back in ten minutes. I said “no chance”, so we all went together, walking; it was not very far. It was just dimly lit back streets in a village. Actually it was a waste of time, just a house with young women and a few guys. I wonder if it was a brothel.

So we were soon back at Rameshwar’s house.

There was a strange vibe from the mother. I founnd out that she was upset because Lesley had not touched her feet. Lesley said she would not do that but I persuaded her that it was a custom and sign of respect, so she did. Remeshwar’s brother went to change his shirt, so we could take photos - “but no touching” he said.

 

Rameshwar offered us a separate bedroom with a small bed; I slept on the floor. I put a chair up against the door in case anyone tries to come in during the night. Lesley said not to do that as they will feel insulted. I said that they will would not know unless they tried the door.

Sure enough, early morning, somebody tried to come in.