New Book: Heads, Hats and Tall Tales, Travels in India, Nepal and Egypt: 3 Books in 1

On Amazon 

 Memoirs of my travels in India 1972, India, Nepal and Kashmir in 1981 and 1985, and Egypt in 1989, 1990 and 2010, along with a murder mystery and poems - includes the nitty-gritty from my previous books "All About My Hat The Hippy Trail 1972", "Back to the East, India, Nepal and Kashmir", and "Myhat in Egypt Through the Eyes of a God" - all in one book.

It's a very different world today.

Alun Buffry was born in Wales in 1950 and studied Chemistry at UEA. In 1972, he travelled overland to India, with little money or support, becoming ill in India and spending time in hospitals in Delhi, Kabul and Tehran. After returning to the UK later that year, he became a follower of Prem Rawat, then also known as Guru Maharaji, whom he still follows today. In 1991 he spent time in HMP for cannabis offences. After his release he started writing his books which contain personal accounts of his life experiences and travels, as well as poetry and science fiction..

In 1999 he co-founded the <a href="http://www.ccguide.org/lca/lca.php"Legalise Cannabis Alliance (LCA)</a> with Jack Girling, He stood for Parliament in 2001and local council elections in Norwich As well as many published letters, interviews and speeches, he spoke in a debate on cannabis legalisation at the Oxford Union and testified before A Select Committee in Parliament.

His other books are
"From Dot to Cleopatra", a concise history of Ancient Egypt, "The Effie Enigma, The Motherless Mothers" (Sci-fi), "Out of Joint, 20 Years of Campaigning for Cannabis 1991 - 2010", "My Piece of Peace£, "Time for Cannabis, The Prison Years", Inside my Hat and other Heads" (poetry with others), "Words of Weed and Wisdom" (poetry with others), "An Alliance-of Eyes" (poetry with others), "Damage and Humanity in Custody" with William D Hutchinson, "If Only Suomi" time-travelling romance", "Legalise and Utilise Commemorative Edition", "Cannabis: Challenging the Criminal Justice System" with Don Barnard.

<a href="http:/www.buffry.org.uk/abefreepublishing.html">SEE HERE</a>

Conclusion: Taken from Back to the EAST: INDIA, NEPAL, KASHMIR by ALUN BUFFRY

 TAKEN FROM BACK TO THE EAST: INDIA, NEPAL, KASHMIR - Alun Buffry

 https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/1916310796/ref=nosim?tag=webbooks05

CONCLUSION

I have made three trips to India. The first, pretty much out of the blue because when we left the UK we had intended to travel only as far a Turkey, in a van. There were four of us. None of us had very much money. I had left UK with just about £60, three weeks wages in those days. By the time we reached Antalya, in Turkey on the southern coast, I had just £20 left. We slept either in the van or in a tent until we reached Istanbul, where we rented cheap rooms. After that, we slept in Turkey in the open. From Turkey Keith and I took a boat eastwards, intending to travel to Beirut then back to Istanbul to meet up again with the others. On the boat, however, we were advised not to go to Beirut, so instead hitch-hiked across Syria into Iraq and on the Baghdad, then on by bus to Tehran. Then we headed east across Iran, Afghanistan, Pakistan and into India. The main problem for me was lack of money, so not being able to eat the food I should have been eating and staying in cheap and often dirty hotels. I ran out of money in Kabul, a dirty city but cheap and friendly. I sold a few items such as shirts and a compass and met a wealthy German guy called Helmutt, who helped us get to India, by plane from Lahore to Amritsar, one of the first passenger planes after the end of the Pakistan-India war. In Amritsar, we stayed for free at The golden Temple and I hitched a truck ride to Delhi.

I struggled on very little money, receiving just a few pounds in mail from the UK. Keith went on alone to Nepal. I became ill and spend a week in hospital (free) in Delhi, suffering from dysentery and hepatitis. I tried to travel back overland to the UK but became ill again and again, being hospitalised in Kabul and Tehran, from where I had to take a flight back to London, which my parents paid for. I was 22-years-old. Looking back, it’s easy to say I should have had more sense.

Yet looking back, it was a pretty dumb thing to do, although very educational and an experience that I valued. But it was hard work in the east, with such different people, customs, lifestyles, religions, languages, foodstuff, politics and the divisions of wealth and poverty.

That was a disastrous trip, not only did I and Keith became ill, but after we left Turkey my good friend John Sullivan was killed when the van crashed in Antalya; the other passenger, Mike, was seriously hurt, broken leg, broken ribs and bang on the head. I did not even find out what had happened until I was back in Kabul, months later, and by chance met somebody that I knew from Norwich, Pete Roscoe, who was on his way to India.

From the moment we had left the UK, everywhere we went, we managed to buy hash, in every country we passed through with the exceptions of Iraq and Iran. In Iran, we actually stayed on an opium farm run by a licensed farmer who also supplied it illegally. He was also the village policeman.

That tail is told in my book “All About My Hat The Hippy Trail, 1972”

What did I learn?

The variety of people in our world.
The generosity and care we received from people with so little.
That I had people that I could call on to help when all else failed.
To travel with enough money to get one through and get one home safely.
To take more care of health regarding hygiene and diet.

So my next trips to India, both by plane, recorded in this book, were 1981 and 1985.

By this time many places had already changed in respect of politics and freedom, and it was not so possible to travel overland.

1981 was a two week holiday. 1985 was a two month journey.

At both times I had more money, enough as I thought, being older and wiser, as I thought. Yet in both cases we spent our money faster than we had anticipated and had to write home for more.

Of course another problem that was easy to have forgotten, was that contact with family and friends back in the UK was not instant and easy. A phone call had to be booked a week in advance and one had to hope that the call would be answered. Otherwise, it meant booking another call. Also in those days not everyone in the UK had a phone in their house and nobody had a mobile (cell) phone.

We were lucky to have booked the holidays through travel companies that were able to help us out.

So I reiterate my advice, make sure one has enough funds and remember, cash and bankers cards can be lost or stolen (as can possessions and passports).

Delhi and Agra, had changed noticeably since 1972 since I had visited those cities.

They were more populated with more traffic, more noise, more dirt and more beggars and hasslers on the streets. Also more “richer” tourists. Kashmir was attracting people with money, staying on houseboats, often isolated and even protected from the people and poverty on the streets. Corruption, baksheesh, favouritism and bureaucracy were all more common – you will have read about our problems getting seated on planes that had been overbooked.

One of the favourite sayings of many people was “no problem”. Either they did not see a problem, did not see it as important or simply did not care. Yet paying baksheesh in advance would often avoid those problems. ‘Jimmy’, on the houseboat in Kashmir in 1985 never did post the letter that he had promised to post; that cost me a sitar.

Many Indians won’t say that they don’t know; instead they tell one what they think. An example was when we were told that our funds were at abank when they were not and had not even been sent.

I certainly would not advise anyone to drive a vehicle in India. The rule of the road everywhere was “Might is Right”. Walkers and people with carts pulled by animals got out of the way of cars, which got out of the way of buses, which got out of the way of trucks. Everyone was listening out for the loudest horns approaching them. Everyone in the cities seemed to drive using their horns more than indicators. Of course walkers and those with animal-pulled carts had no horns.

At one point in this book, you will see a photo taken from a rickshaw on a road in Delhi; you can see pedestrians, bicycles, rickshaws, cars, buses, trucks and even an elephant.

Of course food is another problem: you may have heard of “Delhi belly”.

The difference between western and India food and water, the way in which so much ghee is used, often the lack of hygiene, that does not cause serious problems for locals, almost inevitably causes some problems for westerners on short holidays. Often these problems are short-lived, being simply a matter of adjusting, but one does not want or need to spend a few days feeling ill especially on a short trip.

At all times, one needs to be aware of thieves and conmen on the streets. People, bot men and women, that will simply want to take advantage of you.

There are those that will simply try to pick your pocket or steal your bag; there are those that ask for money and won’t take no for an answer; there are those that will tell lies and try to mislead you for their own advantage; there are those that say they just want to practice their English and end up taking you to a shop where, albeit they are friendly and often the craftsmanship is fine. That includes foreigners as well as locals.

Of course those people are in the minority, thankfully, and the majority will be friendly and helpful or simply stand and stare. One certainly has to become used to people staring. Also some people don’t want their photographs taken and will ask for money or become very angry, whilst others will ask you to take a photograph of them with or without you.

The gap between wealth and poverty is sometimes atrocious and sickening. One can do nothing about it. In Delhi we made a quick visit to a five star hotel. Inside was spotless and elegant and a cup of tea cost about £5. Right outside the guarded gates that led to the garden from the street, was a tiny chai stall where a cup cost pennies and the street was littered with rubbish and rubble. One sees street food stalls selling hot and cold dished whilst donkey-pulled carts trundle by in the dust, dropping their crap as they go. Many people are unaware of hygiene or unable to do anything about it. Certainly it is essential to ensure that even bottled water ins restaurants is actually bottled water and not just from the tap, or to use purification tablets.

But all that in India. That is part of the experience. But just as it is wise to wear a safety helmet on a building site anywhere, one needs to take care and precautions.

June 1972: Agra and the Taj Mahal

 Taken From All About My Hat The Hippy Trail 1972 ISBN ‎ 978-0993210716

The next morning Al had a quick breakfast of eggs and toast, unlike in Kabul it was easy to order and took a rickshaw to the Taj Mahal. He picked up a pamphlet from a stall outside that was selling postcards.

 

“In 1631, Shah Jahan, emperor during the Mughal empire's period of greatest prosperity, was grief-stricken when his third wife, Mumtaz Mahal, a Persian princess, died during the birth of their 14th child, Gauhara Begum. Construction of the Taj Mahal began in 1632. The court chronicles of Shah Jahan's grief illustrate the love story traditionally held as an inspiration for Taj Mahal.. The principal mausoleum was completed in 1648 and the surrounding buildings and garden were finished five years later. Emperor Shah Jahan himself described the Taj in these words:

“Should guilty seek asylum here,

“Like one pardoned, he becomes free from sin.

“Should a sinner make his way to this mansion,

“All his past sins are to be washed away.

“The sight of this mansion creates sorrowing sighs;

And the sun and the moon shed tears from their eyes.

“In this world this edifice has been made;

“To display thereby the creator's glory.

“The tomb is the central focus of the entire complex of the Taj Mahal. This large, white marble structure stands on a square plinth and consists of a symmetrical building with an arch-shaped doorway topped by a large dome and finial.

“The marble dome that surmounts the tomb is the most spectacular feature. originally made of gold but replaced by a copy made of gilded bronze in the early nineteenth century.

“Elsewhere, the garden is laid out with avenues of trees and fountains.”

Al stood up and absorbed the pleasing view of this incredible white building reflecting in the pool of water that was between the two walkways leading to the marble miracle. On either side there was green grass, bushes, flowers and trees.

There were quite a few tourists about, Indian-looking as well as Japanese and Westerners, and many people taking photographs of their friends in front of the Taj. Al waited for an opportunity and took a photograph. He had just two photos left in his camera and knew that at the moment he did not have enough cash to buy another film.

Al spent about an hour walking round the building and took a look inside – it was all sparklingly clean and well decorated with various types of writing and symbols that we did not understand.

It was a peaceful place to be, unlike many places that we had visited, Al found he could sit without being approached or disturbed by anyone.

When he left, his driver insisted taking Al to some souvenir shops even though Al stressed he did not want to buy anything. He drank tea provided by merchants whilst they showed their wares. He kept telling them that he did not want to buy, and when he left without buying anything, they did not seem to mind. He saw gem stones, cut and uncut; there were stores crammed with brass ware, from ashtrays of various designs, candle-sticks, goblets and trays and pots small and large. There was a shop selling beautiful marble boxes and table-tops inlaid with slices of semi-precious stones. They also passed many shops selling small models of the Taj Mahal, others seemed to be offering lamps and shades of all types, brightly coloured clothing, beads and jewellery, bags and other leather goods, sacks full of spices and herbs, fruits and vegetables, sweets and breads and several barbers shops – and a stall selling all sorts of hats! We even passed by a beer shop.

To Al's surprise he spotted several cows just standing in the streets buzzing with bicycles and bicycle rickshaws and mopeds. Al knew that Hindu's considered the cow to be Holy, did not eat the meat and more or less left the beasts free to roam and munch on whatever they could find to eat.

March 19 1985: The Taj Mahal and Fatepur Sikri

March 18 1985: Taken from Back to The East: India, Nepal, Kashmir

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/1916310796 

 

 

I had been in Agra in 1972 and visited the Taj Mahal and Fatepur Sikri, both wonderful. At that time, I had stayed in Government Rest House on the outskirts of Agra and got around by bicycle rickshaw and buses. Fatepur Sikri was where we were heading, by taxi with Maxi.

There were four obvious differences between 1972 and now, 1985. The streets were more crowded with local people, rickshaws and much more motorised traffic and corresponding noisier and dustier. There were far more tourists and hasslers. There was more electricity and more telephones. Everyone seemed much more in a rush.

 We made quite an early start. Maxi was waiting for us outside our hotel. I was beginning to wonder whether he was simply a profiteering but friendly taxi driver or some sort of Government employee to keep a watchful and caring eye over us. We soon arrived at the Taj.

This is from a guide book:

“The Taj Mahal or Crown of the Palace was built from white marble and was on the southern bank of the river Yamuna. It was considered to be one of the most beautiful buildings in the world. It was commissioned in 1632 by the Mughal emperor Shah Jahan (reigned from 1628 to 1658) to house the tomb of his favourite wife, Mumtaz Mahal who died on 17 June 1631 while giving birth to their 14th child, Gauhara Begum; it also houses the tomb of Shah Jahan himself. The tomb was the centrepiece of a 17-hectare (42-acre) complex, which includes a mosque and a guest house, and was set in formal gardens bounded on three sides by a defensive battlement.

“The tomb was the central focus of the entire complex of the Taj Mahal. It was a large, white marble structure standing on a square plinth and consists of a symmetrical building with an iwan (an arch-shaped doorway) topped by a large dome. Like most Mughal tombs, the basic elements are Persian in origin. The base structure was a large multi-chambered cube with bevelled corners forming an unequal eight-sided structure that was approximately 180 feet on each of the four long sides.

“The most spectacular feature was the marble dome that surmounts the tomb. The dome was nearly 115 feet high which was close in measurement to the length of the base, and accentuated by the cylindrical "drum" it sits on, which was approximately 23 feet high. Because of its shape, the dome was often called an onion dome or amrud (guava dome). The top was decorated with a lotus design which also serves to accentuate its height. The shape of the dome was emphasised by four smaller domed kiosks placed at its corners, which replicate the onion shape of the main dome. The dome was slightly asymmetrical. Their columned bases open through the roof of the tomb and provide light to the interior. Tall decorative spires extend from edges of base walls, and provide visual emphasis to the height of the dome.

“The main finial section of the roof was originally made of gold but was replaced by a copy made of gilded bronze in the early 19th century. This feature was a clear example of integration of traditional Persian and Hindu decorative elements. The finial was topped by a moon, a typical Islamic motif whose horns point heavenward.

“The minarets, which are each more than 130 feet tall, display the designer's penchant for symmetry. They were designed as working minarets— a traditional element of mosques, used by the muezzin to call the Islamic faithful to prayer. Each minaret was effectively divided into three equal parts by two working balconies that ring the tower. At the top of the tower was a final balcony surmounted by a chattri that mirrors the design of those on the tomb. The chattris all share the same decorative elements of a lotus design topped by a gilded finial. The minarets were constructed slightly outside of the plinth so that in the event of collapse, a typical occurrence with many tall constructions of the period, the material from the towers would tend to fall away from the tomb.

“The exterior decorations of the Taj Mahal are among the finest in Mughal architecture. As the surface area changes, the decorations are refined proportionally. The decorative elements were created by applying paint, stucco, stone inlays or carvings. In line with the Islamic prohibition against the use of anthropomorphic forms, the decorative elements can be grouped into either calligraphy, abstract forms or vegetative motifs. Throughout the complex are passages from the Koran that comprise some of the decorative elements.

“The calligraphy on the Great Gate reads "O Soul, thou art at rest. Return to the Lord at peace with Him, and He at peace with you." The calligraphy was created in 1609 by a calligrapher named Abdul Haq. Shah Jahan conferred the title of "Amanat Khan" upon him as a reward for his "dazzling virtuosity." Near the lines from the Qur'an at the base of the interior dome was the inscription, "Written by the insignificant being, Amanat Khan Shirazi." Higher panels are written in slightly larger script to reduce the skewing effect when viewed from below.

“The interior chamber of the Taj Mahal reaches far beyond traditional decorative elements. The inlay work was a lapidary of precious and semiprecious gemstones. The inner chamber was an octagon with the design allowing for entry from each face, although only the door facing the garden to the south was used. The interior walls are about 82 feet high and are topped by a "false" interior dome decorated with a sun motif. The four central upper arches form balconies or viewing areas, and each balcony's exterior window had an intricate screen cut from marble. In addition to the light from the balcony screens, light enters through roof openings covered by chattris at the corners. The octagonal marble screen bordering the cenotaphs was made from eight marble panels carved through with intricate pierce work. The remaining surfaces are inlaid in delicate detail with semi-precious stones forming twining vines, fruits and flowers. Each chamber wall was highly decorated with dado bas-relief, intricate lapidary inlay and refined calligraphy panels which reflect, in little detail, the design elements seen throughout the exterior of the complex.

“Muslim tradition forbids elaborate decoration of graves. Hence, the bodies of Mumtaz and Shah Jahan were put in a relatively plain crypt beneath the inner chamber with their faces turned right, towards Mecca. Mumtaz Mahal's cenotaph was placed at the precise centre of the inner chamber on a rectangular marble base.

“The complex is set around a large square garden that uses raised pathways that divide each of the four-quarters of the garden into 16 sunken flowerbeds. Halfway between the tomb and gateway in the centre of the garden was a raised marble water tank with a reflecting pool positioned on a north-south axis to reflect the image of the mausoleum. The elevated marble water tank was called al Hawd al-Kawthar in reference to the "Tank of Abundance" promised to Mohammed.”

That reflection was really beautiful. From the far end there were always people taking photographs.

 When we left the Taj, Maxi was waiting for us with two cups of tea, some small cakes and a bottle of water. He seemed anxious to take us to our next stop, Fatepur Sikri, about 20 miles and over an hour away.

Fatepur Sikri, which as I said I had also visited in 1972, this time had other tourists strolling around on the various levels. It may not have been as immediately visually impressive as the Taj but was a fascinating place to see.

 

“The city itself was founded as the capital of Mughal Empire in 1571 by Akbar, serving this role from 1571 to 1585, when Akbar abandoned it due to a campaign in Punjabi and was later completely abandoned in 1610 due partly to a shortage of good water.

“It’s a massive complex on several levels surrounded by a five mile wall on three sides and a lake on the other. Entrance was through a series of gates, namely, Delhi Gate, the Lal Gate, the Agra Gate and Birbal's Gate, Chandanpal Gate, The Gwalior Gate, the Tehran Gate, the Chor Gate, and the Ajmeri Gate.”

It’s quite confusing inside, up and down the various levels, so we did not get to see it all, with no guide.

 “The emperor Akbar tried to start a new religion here, called Deen Illahi, a synthesis of several religions of that time.

“Inside the walled area, are palaces such as Jodh Bai, used by Akbar. The court ladies used to sit here watching the goings on below Bhirbal Bhavan.

“Some of the important buildings in this city, both religious and secular are:

“Buland Daewaz: Set into the south wall of congregational mosque, the Buland Darwaza at Fatehpur Sikri was 180 feet high, from the ground, gradually making a transition to a human scale in the inside. The gate was added around five years after the completion of the mosque to commemorate Akbar’s successful Gujarat campaign. It carries two inscriptions in the archway, one of which reads: "Isa, Son of Mariam said: The world is a bridge, pass over it, but build no houses on it. He who hopes for an hour may hope for eternity. The world endures but an hour. Spend it in prayer, for the rest is unseen".

“The central portico comprises three arched entrances, with the largest one, in the centre, was known locally as the Horseshoe Gate, after the custom of nailing horseshoes to its large wooden doors for luck. Outside the giant steps of the Buland Darwaza to the left was a deep well.

“Jama Masjod was a Jama Mosque meaning the congregational mosque and was perhaps one of the first buildings to be constructed in the complex, with a massive entrance to the courtyard, the Buland-Darwaza added some five years later. It was built in the manner of Indian mosques around a central courtyard. A distinguishing feature was the row of chhari over the sanctuary. Chhatri are elevated, dome-shaped pavilions used as an element in Indian architecture. The word literally means "canopy" or "umbrella." There are three mihrabs, raised platforms, in each of the seven bays, while the large central mihrab was covered by a dome and it was decorated with white marble inlay of geometric patterns.

“The Tomb of Salim Chishti was a white marble encased tomb of the Sufii (1478–1572), within the Jama Masjid's courtyard. The single-storey structure was built around a central square chamber, within which was the grave of the saint, under an ornate wooden canopy encrusted with mother-of-pearl mosaic. Surrounding it was a covered passageway for walking round in a circle with carved stone pierced screens all around with intricate geometric design and an entrance to the south.

“On the left of the tomb, to the east, stands a red sandstone tomb of Islam Khan, son of Shaikh Badruddin Chisti and grandson of Shaikh Salim Chishti, who became a general in the Mughal army in the reign of Jahangir. The tomb was topped by a dome and thirty-six small domed Chattris and contains a number of graves, some unnamed, all male descendants of Shaikh Salim Chisti.

“Diwan-i-Aam or Hall of Public Audience, was a building typology found in many cities where the ruler meets the general public. In this case, it was a pavilion-like multi-bayed rectangular structure fronting a large open space. South west of the Diwan-i-Am and next to the Turkic Sultana's House stand Turkic Baths.

“Diwan-i-Khas or Hall of Private Audience, was a plain square building with four chattris on the roof. However it was famous for its central pillar, which had a square base and an octagonal shaft, both carved with bands of geometric and floral designs, further its thirty-six serpentine brackets support a circular platform for Akbar, which was connected to each corner of the building on the first floor, by four stone walkways. It was here that Akbar had representatives of different religions discuss their faiths and gave private audience.

“IIbadaht Khana or House of Worship was a meeting house built in 1575 CE by the Mughal Emperor Akbar.

“Anup Talao: Anup Talao was built by Raja Anup Singh Sikarwar, an ornamental pool with a central platform and four bridges leading up to it. Some of the important buildings of the royal enclave are surround by it including, Khwabgah (House of Dreams) Akbar's residence, Panch Mahal, a five-storey palace, Diwan-i-Khas (Hall of Private Audience), Ankh Michauli and the Astrologer's Seat, in the south-west corner of the Pachisi Court.

“Hujra-i-Anup Talao: Said to be the residence of Akbar's Muslim wife, although this was disputed due to its small size.

“Mariam-uz-Zamani’s Palace was the building of Akbar's Rajput wives, was built around a courtyard, with special care being taken to ensure privacy.

“Naubat Khana also known as Naggar Khana, meaning a drum house, where musician used drums to announce the arrival of the Emperor. It was situated ahead of the Hathi Pol Gate or the Elephant Gate, the south entrance to the complex, suggesting that it was the imperial entrance.

“The Pachisi Court was a square marked out as a large board game, the precursor to modern day Ludo game where people served as the playing pieces.

“Panch Mahal was a five-storied palatial structure, with the tiers gradually diminishing in size, till the final one, which was a single large-domed Chattri Originally pierced stone screens faced the facade and probably sub-divided the interior as well, suggesting it was built for the ladies of the court. The floors are supported by intricately carved columns on each level, totalling to 176 columns in all.

“Birbal’s House, the house of Akbar's favourite minister, who was a Hindu. Notable features of the building are the horizontal sloping sunshades and the brackets which support them.

“The impressive Hiran Minar, or Elephant Tower, was a circular tower covered with stone projections in the form of elephant tusks. Traditionally it was thought to have been erected as a memorial to the Emperor Akbar's favourite elephant. However, it was probably a used as a starting point for subsequent mileposts.

“Other buildings included Taksal (mint), Daftar Khana (Records Office), Karkhana (royal workshop), Khazana (Treasury), Hammam (Turkic Baths), Darogha's quarters, stables, caravanserai and such.”

Well that was a whole lot to remember so I took copied the information from the pamphlets.

Whilst we were there we were approached by a family of about 15 who insisted on having a photograph with me, which Lesley took. Not all of them wanted to be in it, but it’s a great pic that I still have and I promised to send a copy which I did when we got back to Norwich and had the films developed. There were no digital cameras in 1985.

March 18 1985: Taken from Back to The East: India, Nepal, Kashmir

 March 18 1985: Taken from Back to The East: India, Nepal, Kashmir

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/1916310796

18th March: AGRA

 

We arose at 5 AM to catch the 7.05 AM train, the Taj Express, to Agra, arriving at Agra Cantonment at 10.00 AM. Both stations were of course crowded.

As we left Agra Station we were approached by a smiling taxi driver who introduced himself as Maxi and offered to show us around at a “very good price” whilst we were there.

AGRAMAXI

by

Alun Buffry

We arrived in Agra and were led to a taxi,

By a smiling Moslem, name of Maxi,

Who took us all the sites to see,

Simple charges, a few rupees

You have to spend in every shop

Within which he took us to stop.

"Come in, sit down, don't walk passed

"Look at my stones and see my brass,

"Quality friend you cannot be missing

"Excuse me Sir, I must do some wishing.

"You like some chai, cold drink, coffee?

"No don't talk now of your money!"

"Only to look and not to buy,

"See here it's cheap, and here is why -

"See the craftsmanship is fine,

"And it can be yours if you'll just sign

"The cheque or bill or pay in cash,

But first my friend, just smoke more hash!"

Maxi asked us for just 80 rupees for the whole day visiting the Taj Mahal, Agra Fort, the Mogul Palace. Our itinerary from the Baktoos included a one night stay at Hotel Amir, which looked clean, with a restaurant downstairs, free tea, a carpeted room with a shower and bath. Breakfast included cornflakes, already a treat!

 

 

Of course as well as site seeing, Maxi took us to shops, where of course he always earned a good commission despite our haggling. We bought rings, semi-precious gem stones including aquamarine, a marble inlaid table top (which, in 2021, I still have) some silk paintings and soapstone pieces. I thought that it I could sell them back in the UK it would go some way to paying for the holiday.

 

Agra Fort was a massive red fort, one third of which was open to the public; the rest was used by the Indian Army. Emperor Akbar started the building in 1565 and it was continued by his grandson, Shah Jahan. The one that built the Taj Mahal and was later overthrown by his own son Aurangzeb (Muhi-ud-Din Muhammad).

 

Inside the fort there were several palaces and also a beautiful and fine view of the Taj Mahal. The extensive walls were surrounded by two moats, one of which previously had been filled with water and the other with wild animals. One entered through the Amar Singh gate. The other gate, the Delhi gate, was used by the army.

 

The Moti Masjid, or Pearl Mosque, looked beautiful from the outside but was closed off.

The Hall of Public Audiences had amazing acoustics so that people even a hundred yards away (modern measurements of course) could hear the Emperor, even if he whispered.

The Hall of Private Audiences had two thrones, one for the Emperor and opposite that, one for his chief councillor. It was here that secret meetings were held under canvas. The Peacock Throne was kept here before it was later carried off to Tehran.

Jahangiri’s Palace may be the most noteworthy building inside the Agra Fort. The Mahal was the principal zenana (palace for women belonging to the royal household), and was used mainly by the Rajput wives of Akbar. It was a form of Islamic architecture. The palace was built by Akbar. It was one of the earliest surviving buildings of Akbar's reign. Jahangir in his memoirs stated that the buildings were erected by his father Akbar but did not take any credit for the construction of Jahangiri palace. Mahal Mughal Empress Nur Jahan used this magnificent palace as her residence until her death on 17 December 1645. There was a huge bowl called Hauz-i-Jahangiri that was carved out of a single piece of stone. This was used as a container for fragrant rose water.

The Shish Mahal or Mirror Palace was once full of tiny mirrors and used by concubines.

The beautiful Grape Gardens (Anguri Bagh) probably never had grapes! Built by Shah Jehan in 1637, with Khas Mahal to its east and red sandstone arcades on the other three sides, it was the principal square of the zenana apartments or the living area of the royal ladies. There was a marble paved platform with a fountain in its centre and the garden itself was divided into compartments in intricate geometrical pattern.

In front of the Jahangiri’s Palace, there was a huge bath, about 5 feet deep, carved out of a single piece of stone. Underneath was a cool room used in summertime, and above it was a white marble palace. When the Emperor Jahan’s wife died and she was buried at the Taj Mahal, it was closed up so nobody could see the detail and care taken in building this masterpiece.

One entered the grounds through a sandstone arch inscribed from the Koran. A watercourse runs from there through the gardens to the Taj Mahal.

The shops of Agra offered a variety of fine crafted goods. The marble shop had table tops of marble inlaid with slivers of semi precious stones, boxes, table mats, lamp stands, chess boards and much more. Some of the work was very detailed. The patterns were drawn on the marble and the shapes cut out and filled. Much of the work was done by children. The gem shop contained many precious and semi precious stones, with Star of India, Black Stars, Lapis Lazuli, Aquamarine and Tigers Eye, of fine, medium and poor quality, sold at rupees per carat. They would place a stone in a ring or almost anywhere else you want it. For a price! They also sold silk paintings, inlaid bags and belts and small items. There was also a sitar shop with beer, charas and music. Small sitars were from £35 to £50, larger single drum £100 to £200, and a beautiful double drum for £400. They said sitar was easy to learn how to play. The bulbous part was made from pumpkin.

The brass shop was piled high including lots of shelves with many brass items. The most impressive were the copper and white brass coffee pots in various sizes, many inlaid with semi precious stones. I bought one lovely piece about fifteen inches tall, with a decorated handle and dragon-like headed spout. I still have it to this day. It was to be shipped back to the UK along with the many other items that I bought with the intention of selling. These included many hanging chains of small brass bells with shapes of animals or birds or letters spelling out words such as LOVE and PEACE. They were sold by the weight. Also several beautiful engraved brass vases and lamp stands, a wine set of tray, decanter and goblets, various ashtrays shaped like playing cards, hearts, diamonds, clubs and spades, brass lighter covers and several coloured engraves brass bowls with peacock motifs.

That evening we ate at Zorba the Buddha: clean with a good selection of vegetarian food. It was run by Sanyasi. The Sanyassen were dressed in orange it was an unusual modern cult of devotees that had relinquished their possessions but did not seem limited to any particular lifestyle or ritual either. Still, they seemed happy so good luck to them. I had met some back in Norwich. Most of them smoked chillums of hash.

Back to the East, India, Nepal, Kashmir 1981 and 1985

 https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/1916310796

 

VIDEO: The Jewels of the East

ALUN BUFFRY - 2 news books now in paperback

"ALL ABOUT MY HAT - THE HIPPY TRAIL 1972"  PAPARBACK
isbn   9780-0-9932107  ON AMAZON
isbn    978-0-9932107-0-9 THROUGH BOOKSHOPS AND LIBRARIES

An incredible journey in 1972, of a young man and his hat, "Myhat", from Thessalonki in Greece, through Turkey, Syria, Iraq, Iran, Afghanistan, Pakistan and India - and back to the UK, through poverty and illness, a journey not forgotten. Passing through Istanbul, Izmir, Ephesus (Efes), Antalya, Antakya, Aleppo, Deir el Zur, Qa'im, Baghdad, Tehran, Mashad, Herat, Kandahar, Kabul, Khyber Pass, Peshawar, Rawalpindi, Lahore, Amritsar, Delhi, Agra, Haridwar and Rishikesh - known now as "The Hippy Trail".


READERS' COMMENTS
Joan Bello?, US: "I am quite sure that I have just finished reading what should be recognized as an all time classic. Alun Buffry is a master storyteller. All About My Hat kept me spellbound from the first page. This is a precise recounting of true adventure that every hippy-minded person will be in awe of regardless of age. Thankfully, Buffry has found a delightfully unique literary vehicle that completely disposes of the usual ego distraction of so many biographical accounts. It is effortless reading, nothing superfluous, no fillers, with an ease of language and a precision that is admirable. My Hat is a constant reminder of the camaraderie shared among all cannabis supporters around the world. Bravo!!"
Winston M, Surrey: "Great read and so much interesting found it hard to put down."
Kevin T, Norfolk: "A Brilliant book once i started it i could NOT put it down i would recommend others to read it."
Roger H, Suffolk: "Good Grief!"
Ann C, Norwich: "This is a fascinatng book packed with stories about adventures on the "Hippy Trail" in all its reality. It was harsh with extreme discomfort, heat and dust and sometimes illness. It took strength and endurance ...but then... the rewards were a rich awareness of other cultures and beliefs. "I recommend it warmly.and did I mention, it is so funny!"
Roger W E, Swansea: "My Hat is becoming an independent friend, as I read on - he/she/it is competing with you! Roger WE"
Chris P, Essex: "Awesome read fella, most enjoyable."
Ian L, Norfolk: "Liked it a lot, very entertaining, definitely a good read, well done Alun."
Frank K, W Sussex: "Loved the book Alun and have shown friends, also travellers with a Hippie hat. Great days to remember for you I bet. I like the way you laid out the text too, great read."
Mark S, Norfolk: "Loving the book."
Melissa D, Italy "I really enjoyed this book..... but I have to admit I skipped some of the travel book descriptions. My favourite part is..... No, I won't spoil it for you!
Simon B, Norwich: "You were lucky to survive - loved the book."
Marion G, Suffolk: "Marion Gaze An easy enjoyable read. It took me right back to those times of footloose carefree travel and spontaneous adventure....usually ending in illness or loss of ones money! Though i was part of the start of the journey, Alun's Hat remembers a lot more than me, which is why there will not be a book about my overland trip to India a year or so later..." 
 
INTRODUCTION
Let me introduce myself, I am called Myhat.
I am quite an old hat. I was made decades ago. I had been passed many times to a few heads, yet had seldom found one that I felt really comfortable on.
About 40 years ago, everything changed. I found myself upon a head that I had a close affinity with and I found myself seeing, hearing, smelling much through this young man, Al - and even picking up on his emotions and thoughts.
I was lost then for several years, stored in a cupboard until, once again, I found myself on Al's head and now I can tell my tales.
Al and I spent some nine months together on our first trip, visiting many big cities and several small villages, in eight countries, all different, all new to myself and my new head – an adventure of a lifetime.
I had sat on Al's head and witnessed all sorts of strange places and events until we had travelled to India and then to the UK.
When Al arrived back in the UK, he was quite ill, having suffered from a problem called Hepatitis and also dysentery. Al went to his parent's house in Wales and then to hospital. But whilst he was in that hospital, I was never on his head after he had arrived, and ended up in a box in a storage cupboard.
I didn't know what was happening. Why was Al leaving me? How long was I to be here? What would become of me now? Would I get a new head? Would I get more adventures? Would I be treasured or neglected?
Then one day, Al took me out of my box and put me back on his head.
That is how it came that I found myself back on Al's head. I have been on and off Al's head for about forty years and now I can tell my tales. Al had done a lot of travelling over those forty years.
I had always been able to understand any language spoken and understood by whatever head I was placed on - but never been able to utter anything myself – until now! I have discovered that I can help Al remember the places we had experienced together and I somehow I managed to place the idea of writing my tale for me. Anyway, that idea came upon Al and here he is, writing this for me!
As well as understanding the thoughts, memories and feelings of my head – I felt as he felt - I have been able to see through the eyes, hear through the ears and even taste through the mouth and tongue of my head – Al – and over the days developed a strange connection so that so long as Al was nearby, I could watch what was going on around him – even when not on his head!
I watched, I listened and I remembered – and that is how I come to write this story through a head called Al.

A DIP IN THE GANGES
After a pleasant afternoon with Ashok and his family, they drove back to Haridwar and Al was dropped off back near the railway station where, once again, he slept on the wooden bench.
The following morning after a breakfast of fruit, yoghurt and bread, Al took a stroll around the town. It seemed very old. The streets were crowded with people going about their days amidst the cows.
After a while he found a bridge over the river Ganges. It looked greener on the other side, with trees to sit beneath and watch the powerful currents pass. So he crossed the bridge and turned right to follow a rough path running besides the River.
He spotted an orange-robed elderly and bearded man sitting cross-legged beneath a tree, a semi-circle of younger people sitting facing him.
Al knew that they were called Baba’s, as he himself had been called a few times.
“Maybe he’s one of those guru teachers,” Al thought.
Back in England Al had read about the pop group The Beatles who had taken up with a Guru called Maharishi Mahesh Yogi who had taught them how to meditate and himself gained great publicity and popularity – maybe it was something to do with that.
The orange-robbed ‘teacher’ shouted something and motioned to Al to go over and join them and sit down. Al complied. The elderly teacher smiled and asked Al where he was from and why he was in Haridwar, in a broken English with an almost German accent.
Al explained that he had travelled overland from the UK, simply on an adventure and that he was here because he had met a Spanish man in Delhi who had recommended it as a good place to stay for a while. The teacher laughed and from under his robes produced a chillum. The chillum was prepared, wrapped in a safi – a small piece of cloth that served as a sort of filter – the tobacco hash mixture poured in and the lit chillum passed around so that everyone including Al had a good puff.
The teacher-come-chillum-maker – the Baba – asked Al if he had a few rupees for another chillum. Al handed over a small note. A young boy suddenly appeared from amongst the nearby thickness of trees, took the note, ran off into the trees to return seconds later with a small lump of black hash which he passed on and which was instantly made into another chillum and smoked.
Al stayed a short while and as nothing was being said and he was quite high on the hash, he said his goodbyes and left, carrying on in the same direction as before. Within minutes he was sitting with another group under another tree, smoking again.
“This is the good life!” thought Al, so high that he was beginning to feel like he was in a Holy city in India. “By the Ganges!”
He left the second group and walked some hundred yards before he had the idea that immersing oneself in the Ganges was supposed to purify the soul.
“Well,” he mumbled under his breath so only he (and I) could hear, “Why not, it’s hot and I’ll soon dry off.”
Across the river he could see a long walled building complex with steps going down to the River. As he got closer he could see steps going down on this side too. A few steps, “I should be OK."
The water was moving very fast. Al thought maybe he would not immerse himself, just splash himself all over.
“After all, I can’t swim.” So he put down his bag, took me off his head and put me on his bag, took off his sandals, and stepped down and in to the water.
With some hesitation, one step, second step, third step – then his feet were swept from under him. He felt himself falling backwards into the water which he knew would sweep him away. Too high to feel real fear, he envisioned the situation if he was to be swept down the Ganges – he would have to try to float. He had to hope he would be saved, but who would swim in this? How many bodies had ended up like this. Was this really Holy Water?
As he fell he reached out and somehow managed to grab a chain that was attached to the land, maybe for mooring a boat. He grabbed the chain but the force of the water was now tugging at his body like a hungry monster and now splashing his whole body with his head about to go under.
As his head went under he felt a wrenching on his arm but he pulled stronger, now his head was out, now his body, now he was clambering up the steps, drenched and coughing up Holy Water. He made it to the grassy bank and collapsed on the floor.
I felt so many emotions and thoughts and images flooding Al’s brain.
“So fucking stupid! I could have died.”
“Am I cleansed? Am I saved? Don’t feel any different.”
“God I’m stoned! I shouldn’t have done that. What would have happened if that chain wasn’t there?”
“Glad I took Myhat off!"
So was I.
Had I been in that water I would surely have been swept away for ever.
But it wasn’t long before Al was dried out and sitting with yet another group smoking another chillum.
After a while, that particular teacher said that they had seen Al go into the River and now his soul was clean. That was about all he said, except he asked Al if he wanted some chai and said that “Mahatma is coming, he will take you for chai.” Al liked the spicy milky tea drinks.
Al wondered if this was the Maharishi Mahesh Yogi or maybe some local lord or lord’s son, a rich man probably. Everything was so strange that Al did not know what to expect next. I was wondering about who this ‘Mahatma’ was - maybe he made hats?
After a while a man in orange robes accompanied by a small group of Indian-looking people approached. Apparently he was the Mahatma. He exchanged words with the teacher under the tree and said to Al: “OK, you come now for chai and this evening we will do our ‘Arti’ parade through town and then you join us and come to Ashram maybe?” They walked a while, crossed a bridge and entered a small chai shop where the Mahatma said something to the owner or waiter – who did not look too pleased – pointing at Al who, seemingly somewhat disgruntled, delivered to his table with “No charge, Sir” and the Mahatma and his entourage left, saying “Join us for Arti parade.”
There were still a few hours before evening so Al decided to go and wait on his bench back at the railway station.
That was when everything changed.

"OUT OF JOINT -  20 YEARS OF CAMPAIGNING FOR CANNABIS"  isbn  978-1-5084202-1-7

It was in Norwich prison whilst on remand in 1991 that Alun Buffry was approached by Jack Girling during a prison visit, and invited to help him and others form the Campaign to Legalise Cannabis International Association (CLCIA).In 1992, whilst on bail, the CLCIA was formed but it would not be until after Alun Buffry was released on parole in 1995, having served four-and-a-half years, that he started to dedicate himself to the cause of legalising the possession, cultivation and trade of cannabis in the UK. In the General Election of 1997, Howard Marks contested four seats on the single issue of cannabis. In 1999, the campaign registered as a political party in the UK under the name Legalise Cannabis Alliance (LCA).The LCA fought in over 80 elections including Parliamentary, local council and county councils, did numerous talks and interviews, gave oral evidence to the Home Affairs Committee and the Basque Government in Spain, debated at The Oxford Union and at universities, attended marches and rallies protests and picnics and produced the first and only Party Political Broadcast by a cannabis party, shown on TV in Wales in 2005. This is Alun Buffry's no-holds-barred story, from his prospective, detailing his own activities and those of others, over the period 1991 to 2011.